Sulawesi Summary

Greetings from Kathmandu!

Hello again everybody! It certainly has been quite sometime since I had the chance to update ya'll on my adventures and whereabouts. Pictures are much less work, but a good read every now and then helps put perspective on the traveling life as well. Since my last post The Aeyelts' and I were just about to take off for Pantai Bira and celebrate Frans 65th birthday. Pantai Bira is a local tourist hangout and takes in few foreign tourists as it is a bit of a dead end. The road is also very rough as it meanders for 6 hours to SE point of Sulawesi (covering only about 200km). Once we arrived we were met with lots of locals and a few foreigners relaxing as well. There were only two restaurants in town, and if you were lucky it would only take  two hours to get your order. Usually whoever took your order would walk past your table, hop on his scooter and drive to whatever corner of town the prawns, chicken or fish came from. Needless to say don't be in a rush when you arrive, since no one else appears to be. Once we arrived we celebrated Fran's birthday modestly with a meal and a few Bintangs to wash it down. Our big feast was the night before back in Makassar if you remember. Strolling to the main lookout over the beach the sound of goats, splashing waves, and locals playing "football" filled the air as we watched a beautiful sunset over the water.

By the second day in Pantai Bira Frans finally got his birthday present; a visit to an old shipyard where they were constructing enormous wooden teak ships with barely any modern accessories. Other than an enormous chainsaw, electric planer, and occasional drill everything else was being done by hand. This was definitely one of the few places in the world where they still construct ships in this manner. It was as if you were looking back 100 years in time! Instead of a crane or lift they had a windlass (old school anchor winch) to hoist the enormous pieces of teak into the hull. Immediately the questions started flying as the Aeyelts brothers found their Dutch sailing roots, it sounded something like this:

Warner: My god, look at the size of this piece of lumber! How much do you think it weighs?

Frans: Warner! Come look at this stern section! How wide do you think it is?

Warner: This thing enormous, how much do you think it costs? 

Frans: Where does all this wood come from? Must be from Borneo, it would cost a fortune back home! 

Warner: This wood probably comes from Borneo right Frans? 

Frans: How much do you think this boat cost to build?

...............................................................................

As we approached the third hour of wandering around the site, inspecting the hull and all it's dowels and fibrous epoxy filled spaces, I hesitantly reminded them of the time and we made our way back to the scooters we had rented for the day. The two ships being constructed next to one another was pretty impressive to see and I immensely enjoyed walking around them as well. Their dimensions were approximately 10m by 35m we estimated. Also on the site were a few smaller outrigger and fishing boats being constructed that start with hollowed out tree trunks. They then add planks and ribs as the hull becomes deeper and deeper. We had to do some research about them and found out they cost approximately       500 000 USD and 4-5 months to construct with a crew of 20. They are mostly used as charters and live aboard diving ships popular with Eastern Europeans especially. 

The rest of the day we scooter-ed our way back up the coast to see a couple more beaches along the way and another smaller boatyard making similar style ships on a smaller scale. The whole pennisula was scorching hot as it is mostly composed of volcanic rock and offers little shade. When we checked into a different guesthouse that night without A/C we found out how little it cools off at night as well. With only a small fan split between two it remained near 30 degrees the entire night through. The small breeze blowing during the day had all but disappeared. Thankfully, this is an excellent way to see as much as you can each day, since you won't be sleeping in past 8 am. The following day we charted a boat to the local reefs for some snorkeling and relaxing. Our captain for the day was quite the character arriving in his short shorts and pot belly sticking out. He was on his cellphone and remained talking into it the entire day through, engine roaring or not. Since he steered with his foot from above the cabin, he had a free hand to chain smoke his way through two packs as we drifted up and down the coral. Pantai Bira was a nice change from Bali, but only warranted a couple days to retreat from the masses we found. It was a good opportunity to celebrate Frans' birthday and see those colossus ships up close. By our third day we made our way back North to get on with the rest of Sulawesi. 

But first a stop in Makassar. 

Seeing as 6 hours takes up the majority of the day we found it unnecessary to go any further than that. We stayed at the same place when we initially arrived in Makassar as it just so happen to be conveniently located right next to a fantastic Seafood restaurant (this would make it our third and final visit). Delicious!

The next segment of our trip was when we would receive our first big dose of Sulawesi culture: the Tana Toraja! Having only read small segments about it in our Lonely Planet we did not know what to expect, except they have enormous funerals and are intent on making one's death the biggest celebration of their (previous) life. Rantepao would be our base for exploring the Tana Toraja. They have a very fascinating culture and the surrounding landscape definitely warranted a few days to visit. However, this region is also one of the most famous in Sulawesi and the tourist wagons were everywhere. But that's to be expected in an area of the world as unique as this. Luckily, some local 75 year old Tana Torajean had passed away a weeks ago and would be having a funeral the day after we arrived. We hired a guide who was familiar with the family and he instructed us to buy a carton of cigarettes as an offering for having us at their funeral.

In the morning we first stopped at a small Tana Toraja village made up completely of traditional houses and their corresponding granaries or rice barns. The core of the village was surrounded with meager bamboob huts all being partially dissembled. Apparently, for the bigger more affluent families they will build hundreds of temporary houses surrounding the original village and funeral home. The houses we saw being brought down were from half a year ago where thousands of people came for nearly a week long funeral from all over Indonesia. These enormous funerals can take years to prepare for financially. So what happens to the deceased? They are embalmed and soaked in formaldehyde once a week until the funeral has been organized. During this time they are kept in house graves (similar to rice barns) awaiting their celebration. 

From here we carried onto the funeral. As we arrived I noticed a long column of white vans lined up with their drivers all congregating next to them; we weren't going to be the only tourists here obviously. But, as we walked by the small tent housing all the tourists we were led to the family tent where our guide Henrik introduced us to the deceased's son. We gave our offering and he graciously accepted. Tea, coffer, and cigarettes were passed around as kids dashed back and fourth around the assembly. All in all the crowd was very pleasant and busy catching up with one another. They were all dressed in black and a small figure of Jesus was next to the MC of the event (these are religious remnants of Dutch protestant missionaries from back in the day). On the field in front of us a water buffalo munched on grass and two picks lay tied up to bamboo next to them. With a small announcement from the MC, which was barely heard over the noisy crowd, a man approached one of the pigs. 

WARNING: THE FOLLOWING CONTAINS GRAPHIC CONTENT NOT SUITABLE FOR ALL VIEWERS

As he placed his foot on the pigs neck he drove a long thin blade right through the pigs heart. A horrific scream came from the pig as he continued to push it farther and farther down. It seemed inhumane as the shrieks became louder and louder. The pig slowly bled as a couple dogs began licking the pool of fresh blood. As Warner, Frans, and I looked in horror no one else seemed remotely phased, let alone noticed, the event happening as kids continued to chase one another and families and friends caught up with one another. It was not enjoyable to see especially considering the pig is merely escorted away as it continues to squeal. This sound fades into the distance but still went on for some time as they light a fire and prepare to cook the animal before it's even dead. We thought the worst was over until Henrik our guide, told me to keep my eyes on the water buffalo. 

I watched. And waited. then came the short muffled message from the MC.

Still no movement near the water buffalo. I continued to wait. And wait. And wait....

WHACK!

Out of nowhere a man wielded a razor sharp 10 inch blade that connected with the water buffalo's neck. An enormous stream of blood rushed from it's neck as it seemed merely startled by the man's haste approach. Within a few seconds it slowly dropped to the ground on it's side and continued to bleed. About 5 minutes of twitching ensued before the butchers started gather their supplies. Three men equipped with sharp machetes began surrounding the water buffalo with palm leafs as another three helped position the animal. Then, starting the hide, they took the animal apart piece by piece. Hide, limbs, stomach, entrails, and horn were all separated in front of the crowd as tourists (including myself) snapped pictures of their quick and efficient work. Although the process was rather gory, it certainly was impressive how quickly they took apart the animal. Their job, after all, is an honor to perform. In funerals that go for a week, as many as 50 water buffalo may be sacrificed (thus adding to the enormous cost). The horns are all that's left after the meat is cooked and consumed in the coming days. They are then placed on the center pillar of the families traditional house as a symbol of their dedication to the dead over the years. 

We didn't eat lunch that day.

After the funeral we were off to a small tree grave used to house stillborns and deceased infants. Small holes are bored into the trunk and a palm leaf thatched over it. Within a couple years the tree may grow over the graves, which the Tana Toraja believes is a symbol of them passing on. No animals are sacrificed for children and infants since these are a much more somber event. 

From there it was onto an orphanage which played traditional Tana Toraja bamboo flutes for us. The gentleman who runs the joint is only subsidized by private investors and for that reason the children have to reluctantly perform for tourists. It was interesting to see, but the moment you see an Indonesian children unfazed by white folks, you start to feel as though its time to get off the tourist circuit. Needless to say they played their instruments in the sweltering heat, bowed, and were thanked with a donation from us as well.

The last stop on our busy day was a set of stone and cave graves. The stone graves are also very expensive to dig out over nearly half a year, and are designed with enough space for about 8-9 coffins. Above the row of small doors to these graves are wooden effigies all lined up looking out across the plains. The stone graves were older and the carvings more crude, dating back nearly a hundred years. The cave graves we visited next are also guarded with wooden effigies and the more recent ones look eerily realistic, almost plastic even. As you approach the cave all the effigies are lined up overhead and coffins are stacked on bamboo structures rising to the roof of the cave. As you enter the cave you are greeted by skulls, bones, and a warm humid smell that stinks mostly of rotten wood. Covering the coffins are food, jewelry, and money. Some even have mementos from the deceased's past, such as mining hats, or carving tools. Each time a wooden coffin rots enough in the damp cave they are merely pushed back with a new coffin to make space. The cave we visited was starting to look particularly full. 

BATHROOM BREAK

Our last day in Rantepao was spent trekking along the beautiful rice terraces that cover the region. But first we went to the biggest livestock market in Sulawesi. It was there that they sold water buffaloes from as far as Borneo and Papua New Guinea. The water buffalo are all strung along the market with their heads held high by a rope. By keeping the neck strong (and swollen) they are prevented from eating cash crops on the ground and prepared for bull fighting during some funeral ceremonies. Owners of the water buffaloes were force feeding them as we walked by, attempting to plump them up before being sold. Water buffalo with white hides and spotted with black are the most sot after for funerals. These can be sold for nearly 5 000 USD if they appear to have the right pattern. After the market we started our hike at a look out over Rantepao and worked our way up to another viewpoint called Batutumonga. It was a gorgeous hike through the forest and across the rice paddies, probably the most beautiful ones we have seen so far. We saw plenty of traditional Tana Toraja homes as well, tucked away amongst enormous bamboo and thick jungle. A couple more stone graves were also along our route, and our guide Daod, explained the costs and dimensions as I mentioned in my previous posts.

Following four days in Rantepao we made a quick stopover in a small lake town called Tentena following a 13 hour bus ride through the hills. Spotting fellow tourists became less frequent which was a good sign! After arriving in a budget hotel with a long list of rules posted to the walls Frans was given the towel he's pictured with in the previous post as well. Felt the message was a little bit contradicting. We rented scooters one last time and visited the local waterfall, Lake Poso, and another small market serving up bats cooked in all styles. Not exactly something you crave on a hot day is it? Only another 6 hours from Tentena and we arrived in Ampana, our last stop before the Togean Islands (located in the Guld of Tomini). They were described to us as "Paradise" and that one could spend weeks there at a time. We were very curious to see what was waiting for us.  

The first stop on our Togean Tour was Bomba on the far SW corner of the archipelago. The small resort was perched on a rocky volcanic shoreline, but had incredible reefs surrounding it in all directions. We spent two nights there and had an enormous rain storm keep us cool the whole night through. Since the islands are so isolated the only power they get is from generators run from dusk until 9am; this would be an issue in the coming days. Next from Bomba we stayed at Pulau Kadidiri, the most popular and well equipped island with two diving centers. We managed to get a guesthouse with a gorgeous view set high above the beach, as fellow travelers we left Ampana with stayed at Kadidiri Paradise, a fantastic local guesthouse! I did two dives with Kadidiri Paradise at Una Una, a volcano just a few miles offshore. It was fantastic! The water was gorgeous with fantastic visibility, maybe 20-25m? If you were scared of heights you would get vertigo looking down. The coral was gorgeous as well Frans and Warner reported as they snorkeled the nearby reefs. The Togean Islands are absolutely beautiful to visit. 

But.......

   

At night when the generators turn off there is no wind to be felt in the guesthouse. Even with the slightest breeze the bug nets will kill any air movement you would love to feel. Unfortunately, this meant a few sleepless nights. You would lay on your back wearing next to nothing and sweat the whole night through. Shower after shower you would attempt to cool down before finally falling asleep during the wee hours of the morning. Then, you would wake up in a sweat again by 8am as the sun started to cook the landscape. This is why we noticed locals all getting up around 4am to start their days, and then having siestas once noon would approach. Smart thinking.  Regardless of sleep patterns the islands are fantastic! However, the beaches there mostly man made as the original terrain is all volcanic rock. A couple natural ones can be spotted though along the way. My last dive from Kadidiri was incredible! I had the opportunity to dive the wreck of a World War Two B-24 Bomber! The site isn't marked with anything, the captain just knows where the line up his landmarks and drop a light anchor that clips the wing. As we dropped into the water and gazed down you can only see a dark shadow underneath you. Then as you descend it appears...

Settled on the ocean floor at 22m

Port-side wingtip

Fuselage gunner

1st starboard engine; propeller intact!

Cockpit with resident Lionfish

From the inside

Same prop

Rear fuselage gunner ports

Tail gunner: 0.50 inch M2 Browning Machine Guns

Taking a peek inside

It was awesome to look around the wreck and see all the details from how it was left there over 60 years ago! The story goes that the plane had an engine malfunction and ditched in the waters near a small bay. It bounced and landed successfully before sinking over an hour later. The engines remained intact, along iwth one prop, and two sets of machine guns! To see it up close and feel the body of the plane was out of this world! I nearly burned through all my oxygen when I first saw it! Luckily I calmed myself down enough to get 45 minutes out of the experience! The wreck was also covered in Lionfish who like to call them their own, so we had to be careful. It was one of the best dives I have ever had!

From Kadidiri we made it to our last stop on Pulau Bolilanga. This was a gorgeous, secluded little island where we were the only ones there. The small spit houses eight small guesthouses and a restaurant serving set meals (just like the rest of the Togeans). But the meals here were the only ones you didn't have to drench in sweet soy sauce and sambal. In the following days we enjoyed some deep jungle trekking on Pulau Malenge, a half hour boat ride to the north. This was some of the densest jungle we had seen so far. The loud shrills of Hawks-bills and their enormous wings flapping could be heard through the forest. After a couple hours through the muddy interior we made it to the beach and visited two villages on the way back. One on shore, and the other on an small island connected via a 800m wooden bridge. The towns house Bajo communities, or sea gypsies. The island town is built mostly on stilts above the coral and was really cool to walk across. The last day in the Togeans was spent snorkeling one last time. We motored by the 800m bridge on our way to our reef and noticed a small section had collapsed since we last walked on it. The Togean Islands is not a good place to find yourself picking out coral and nails from your legs we thought. The snorkeling was once again amazing, with beautiful crystal clear waters and steep drop offs exploding with coral life. The one stop we made was at "Hotel California" a small stilt house built right on the reef. It was a great way to end our stay on the Togeans along with one last beautiful sunset to seal the deal. From there it was back to the Sulawesi mainland.

From the Togean Islands it was a long trip back with a few friends we met along the way; Marcel from Germany, and Margriet and Esteban from the Netherlands. We had shared similar itineraries along the Togeans and shared a speedboat back to the mainland (4 hours instead of 14!) Another four hours from our landing and we were at Gorontalo. A quick night there and we carried onwards to Manado, the last destination for our Indonesian adventure! From Manado we first went into the hills of Tomohon to see a local bubbling volcano and take a break from all the snorkeling we had done during the past week. It wasn't long before we descended back down to Manado and sailed on to Pulau Bunaken, a very popular dive site, easily reached from the mainland (maybe an hour boat ride). We stayed at a very well run dive resort called Seabreeze. The food was very excellent as they served a variety of dishes that weren't the typical fried fish and white rice, which was a very refreshing change for our final days. Another set of dives during the day as Warner and Frans snorkeled around one more time. The diving was comparable to the Togeans, i wouldn't say it was better or worse, just about the same. Visibility was no better or worse and the marine life was only a little more active. As far as coral, we thought the Togeans had Bunaken beat.

My final dive in Indonesia would be my first night dive! I was very excited to try it out and a little nervous, obviously. As I tipped myself backwards into the dark water I had no idea what to expect in terms of visibility. When my dive master disappeared below me I became somewhat anxious feeling the pressure mount in my ears and blackness surround me. For a brief moment I thought,

"I can't do this. I can't do this. Why am I doing this? I should probably just surface."

But, my dive master shot back up to grab my hand like a little boy crossing the street and take me down.

Down.

Down.

Down.

To 20m. The flashlights lit up entire sections of nocturnal coral, it was really interesting and exciting to see. As my breathing slowed following my panic attack I began to enjoy the experience thoroughly. The green algae lighting up around your fins, and small crustaceans red eyes peering at you when you covered up your light. Really beautiful to see! And we came across a sleeping Hawksbill turtle as well to top it off! Some of the coral was also feeding during the night which was fascinating to see. I was full of adrenaline when I surfaced and glad I got drug down to see it. I thought that was all the excitement I would get for one night, but a small storm had rolled in during our dive and was kicking up a nasty swell. The effect was compounded by the fact we were on very shallow coral that kicked up the waves even higher. As the boat rocked aggressively from on side to the other all I could think of was,

"Where would Frans be standing if he was here?"

Being the sailor extraordinaire he is, I always hear him mention the ebst place to sit when a boats about to be capsized. Good to know! Haha.

But, we made it back alive! Our last day of vacation was spent touring the small island of Bunaken and visiting the other side. The views are beautiful, but unfortunately all of Manado's garbage washes up on the SW side. Still, it was nice to stroll around amongst the locals and take in the Indonesian culture one last time. We departed the next day and stayed a final night in Manado before flying back to Jakarta. The traffic was still horrendous in this enormous city of nearly 11 million. We got into our hostel, enjoyed one last night of Bintangs and a fantastic meal at the local "Warung" across the street. It was a real nice way to end the trip. We awoke early at around 4am for my 7am flight. Warner and Frans accompanied me to the airport, despite not having to depart until 2pm! They were just happy to share the ride with their favorite tour guide and commander in chief one more time! We parted ways at the airport, reflecting on a really fantastic adventure we liked to call, "Tintin in Indonesia"

I left from a separate terminal and waved goodbye as they drove off to the International gate. The two of them were a real riot to travel with I have to admit. Permitted they don't get too offended I have to share some experiences about them with you. They are by far the most keen and eager travel companions I have had when it comes to meeting locals. They took ever opportunity to discuss and humor locals with their knowledge of Indonesia and Bahasa dialect used by their mother WAY back during their childhood (she was imprisoned there during WW II). Frans would usually flip through his phrasebook and say something so complex in Indonesian with such confidence the locals would rattle back a hundred words convinced he knew how to speak the language! A small sheepish grin would appear as he admitted he had no idea what they were talking about. What a guy! As for inquiries and curiosity go, these tow have more than a grade two classroom :)

"How much does that weigh?"

"Where does that come from?"   

"How much do you think that costs"

"What's the temperature of this? And the distance to there?"

It was really really really good fun listening to them rattle back and fourth arguments over these topics and many more. They remained patient and optimistic even during my more irritable moments (if you know me well enough you've dealt with these first hand; not too often I hope?) I can't imagine anyone has fun and open minded to adventures as these guys. As for the jokes, they never stopped. Well into the night, at the dinner table, and first thing in the morning. Warner, who would shower 3-4 times a day, would always request no joking before bed when he finished having his "last" shower ;) Otherwise, he would crack up and break into a sweat. Poor guy! We all got along really well (I think) and am glad I had the opportunity to experience this fantastic country with them. It has provided countless memories I will not be soon to forget! Thanks old dudes! Missing you lots!

The moment we parted ways it became quiet. Eerily quiet. Time to find another adventure :)

SUMMARY:

Having finished our time up in Indonesia I can honestly say it was one of the friendliest countries I have ever had the opportunity to visit. People are always smiling and asking questions about where you're from and going, regardless of whether you're buying whatever it is they're trying to sell. Sulawesi was also particularily special for being far off the typical tourist circuit. Granted there are plenty of tourists with the same itenery as us, but it doesn't take much to find yourself off the beaten trail and surrounded by eager locals. Here's a brief summary of the things to expect if you ever get the pleasure of visiting Indonesia:

COSTS:

Average montly income: 4 500 000 Rupiahs (450 USD) per month

Beer: Bintang or Angkor about 30 000- 40 000 Rupiahs (3-4 USD) for a large bottle

Spirits: 40 000 - 50 000 Rupiahs (4 - 5 USD) / oz.  after being marked up nearly 300% due to the Muslim influence; arak is the local moonshined brew for about 10 000 (1 USD)/oz.

Water: 1.5L costs about 5000 Rupiahs (0.50 USD)

Dinner: At a local hangout usually 10 000 - 15 000 for a plate

Accomodations: 200 000-300 000 Rupiahs (20-30 USD) for basic double room with bathroom (usually not including A/C; in the Togeans the price is per person usually about 200 000 Rupiahs which includes three set meals)

Local Bus: If you're crammed in a local bus with A/C (lucky you!) it averages out to about   10 000 Rupiahs (1 USD) for each hour. However, this is an average between Indonesians that will charge you the typical fare or a "tourist" price (usually double).

Guides: For some part of Sulawesi and Bali it was nice to have the knwoledge of a local pointing out 

interesting plants and animals. They cost about 400 000 - 500 000 Rupiahs (40-50 USD) for the day, plus the cost of transportation if you need it.

Scooters: Dirt cheap, literally! About 50 000 - 70 000 Rupiahs (5-7 USD) for a day not including petrol (5000 or 0.50 USD/L). A whole day won't cost you more than 100 000 Rupiahs including a snacks/meal/water.

Diving: Prices are consistent across Indonesia (and most parts of the world usually) at about 65 Euros (85 USD) for two dives.

PHRASES:

"Hello Mr. how are you?!?!?"

Usually a driveby shouting from the back of a motorcycle you'll hear this.

"It's okay, no problem..." followed with "only because you're my friend."

When negotiating a price that they reluctantly agree to.

"Nederland? I speak Nederlandse, same as Bahasa; asbak, rem, apotik, notaris, handuk."

When asked where we're from, they would all repeat the same words that equate into basic Dutch words: ashtray, brake, pharmacy, lawyer, towel.

"Can I have your photo please sir?

A phrase you can barely hear as it's whispered by a timid schoolgirl staring up at you.

"Yes sir come inside, free to look!"

Countless vendors lining the exit from almost all monuments in Indonesia attempting to get your attention as you march past hundreds of Chinese made souvenirs resembling everything and anything.

Thanks for reading along everyone and apologies for another ENORMOUS post. Best wishes and lots of love for everyone at home and around the globe! Talk to you soon!

Tim